Know Your Silk: Traditional Indian Silk Sarees 101

The traditional silk sarees have a long history in India. Locally known as Resham saree, the silk sarees were actively used by the women in the Indian subcontinent since the historic times. In those times, however, it was mostly only worn the women from aristocratic families, making silk sarees a symbol of wealth and prosperity. Now, with the advent of industrialization, these marvelous pieces from the rich heritage of India have largely become available to the masses, who love to flaunt these masterpieces on all the occasions. If you too are in love with these shiny and regal 5 yards of magic, then these interesting facts about some of the more popular traditional Indian silk sarees will definitely add some pearls of wisdom to your trivia box with making you a wise customer for your next purchase.
Banarasi Silk Saree
Perhaps the most popular traditional silk saree in northern India, Banarasi silk saree hail from Varanasi, aka Benaras, city of Uttar Pradesh. Often considered as the perfect traditional wear for a wedding and similar occasions, traditional Banarasi silk sarees are hand woven with shiny zari threads of gold. The signature quality of a Banarasi silk saree lies in the intricate intertwining of floral and other regal Mughal motifs, that are woven into the fabric itself. As such the sarees are implicitly quite lustrous to the sight and are rather heavy to wear. It is this quality of the pure Banarasi saree that makes it famous country wide for the rather aristocratic looks. Being one of the finest silk sarees from India, it also enjoys a great reputation all across the globe.
Kanjivaram Saree
Originating from the Kanchipuram region of Tamil Nadu, Kanjivaram sarees are one of the more popular traditional Indian silk sarees. The drape has a huge following in southern India, and it is said that every woman there has at least one kanjivaram saree in their wardrobe. The love of the kanjivaram saree is truly unparalleled in South India where it is predominantly used as the irreplaceable bridal wear. The signature trait of a Kanjivaram saree is the stark difference between the body of the drape and its border and Pallu’s shades. In a genuine Kanjivaram saree, the pallu and border are woven separately from the body and is only attached in the later stages of the manufacturing. Then too, the different parts are interlocked together so strongly that they don’t come apart even if the saree wears out after the long run. The traditional motifs found on kanjivaram sarees are usually inspired by the South Indian temples, and the native flora and fauna.
Tussar Silk Saree
Also known as wild silk, tussar silk is produced from the larvae of different species of silkworms found in the wild forests. The wild nature of the raw material gives tussar silk a unique texture and a natural dull gold color which sets it apart from the other varieties of silk. However, since the manufacturing of tussar silk is usually done by tribals living besides wild forests they cost a little less than most other traditional silk sarees of India. Another feature that sets tussar silk saree apart from its counterparts is its fragility. Since the manufacturing process of tussar silk is more natural than industrialized, the threads of the tussar silk saree weave are relatively short which makes them susceptible to easy tear if not handled properly. Most of the tussar silk sarees are manufactured in Bhagalpur, a city that has developed its unique category of Indian silk saree.
Bhagalpuri Silk Saree
As the name suggests, Bhagalpuri silk saree is manufactured in the Bhagalpur region of Indian state Bihar where the mill of the textile was established during the industrial revolution to market cheaper silk to the masses. Later, when the industry surpassed its original motive, it continues to manufacture high quality and resilient Bhagalpuri silk sarees, that have since then gained a fanbase of itself, earning the place the proud nickname ‘Silk City. In essence, Bhagalpuri silk saree is made of tussar silk only. However, to give the saree its signature texture, a variety of tussar silk yarns in a multitude of colors are used. This gives bhagalpuri silk sarees a unique iridescent and pastoral look, making it favorite festive wear for ladies.
Patola Saree
Favorite of Chalukya aristocracy of 12th century, Patola is a double ikat woven sari in silk that goes through a long, and a well-guarded process of resist dyeing and weaving. The process of creating a double ikat genuine patola silk saree is extremely intricate and time-consuming, making it one of the most expensive silk sarees in the entire Indian ethnic segment. Design feature specific to Patola sarees include the signature geometric weave patterns of the double ikat fabric and depiction of traditional motifs like parrots, flowers, elephants, etc.
Chanderi Saree
Hailing from the Chanderi region of Madhya Pradesh, Chanderi silk sarees belong to those rare Indian saree categories that can readily be used as a daily wear. The fabric of the pure Chanderi silk saree is extremely light and pretty, perfect for women with minimal tastes. But do not let the simplicity of the saree fool you. The weaving culture of Chanderi silk sarees is quite old. The history of chanderi silk saree dates back to the 13th century when Koshti weavers from Jhansi migrated and settled to the place now known as Chanderi. The history of the chanderi silk saree weave is still more ancient. It was first emerged in the 2nd century BCE at the amalgamation center of two diverse cultures of Malwa and Bundelkhand. Now that ancient weave technique is used for the large scale production of Chanderi silk sarees which are marketed in three different kinds of fabrics, and the conventional woven motifs of historical coins, geometric patterns, floral art and peacocks.
Kota Silk Saree
Straight from the wardrobes of Rajasthan’s royalty, Kota silk sarees emerged between the 16th and 18th century BCE in Kota, when Rao Kishore Singh brought with him some weaver families from Mysore, known as ‘Masurias’. The legendary weavers brought the best of the two most popular fabrics, cotton and silk to create a yarn that is both lightweight and lustrous. The signature check pattern of Kota doria silk sarees, also known as khats, are the result of the singular pit loom that fashions the kota silk sarees in a way that it retains its lightweight quality while also becoming infinitely resilient and durable.
So, these are the 7 most popular traditional silk sarees of India, all apt for both festive and ceremonial looks. Note that these are not the only traditional silk sarees that the rich culture of India has given birth to. There are several others like Gadwal, Dharmavaram, and Uppada sarees of Andhra Pradesh, Mooga, Paat, and Eri silk saree of Assam, Paithani and Narayanpet silk sarees of Maharashtra, Baluchari, Korial, and Matka silk saree of West Bengal, Pochampally silk sarees of Telangana, and Sambalpuri Ikat saree of Orissa, that the epic weavers of the land have produced through the long evolutionary processes. In any case, you now know that all silk sarees of India are not the same. They are as individual as the distinct tastes of the people in their respective birth regions are! But with all this diversity, there’s one thing that unites them all, the sheer resplendence of the fabric and vividness of the culture that makes them a global favorite for the depiction of the celebration of timeless traditions.